Used in creams for psoriasis and eczema. Natural urea is a humectant and keratolytic. Crucial note: Urea hydrolyzes in formulas below pH 3 or above pH 7, releasing ammonia. Keep pH 4.5–6.0.
This is the most critical chapter. The PDF addresses the debate: “Do I need a preservative?” (Spoiler: Yes, if you use water). Learn about Leucidal, Geogard, and why "natural" doesn't mean "immune to mold."
Tap water contains metal ions (iron, copper) that catalyze rancidity. A natural PDF should mandate Sodium Phytate (natural chelator from rice bran) at 0.1–0.2% to extend shelf life.
Antioxidants are the guardians of natural formulation. Unlike synthetic ingredients, natural oils contain unsaturated fatty acids prone to rancidity (oxidation). a-z of natural cosmetic formulation pdf
Actives are ingredients intended to effect a change in the skin’s physiology. In natural formulation, these are derived from plants or biotechnology.
This is a comprehensive, practical A–Z reference for formulating natural cosmetics. Each letter maps to an essential topic: definitions, ingredients, formulation methods, safety, testing, troubleshooting, scale-up, labeling, and business considerations. Use sections as modular checklists when developing products.
Once you download or purchase an A-Z of natural cosmetic formulation PDF, do not just read it. Use it as a tool. Used in creams for psoriasis and eczema
Step 1: Reverse Engineer Take a commercial "natural" cream. Identify the first 5 ingredients using your PDF’s lexicon. Guess the percentages.
Step 2: The 10% Rule For any active extract (e.g., Green tea, Licorice), the PDF suggests starting at 1% and increasing to 10% max. Never start at the maximum.
Step 3: The Spreadsheet Method Use the PDF’s tables to build a formulation calculator: Actives are ingredients intended to effect a change
Step 4: Safety First Cross-reference the PDF’s safe usage rates with the IFRA (International Fragrance Association) standards, especially for essential oils listed under "F".
Beeswax is the classic natural thickener and emulsifier (though weak alone). A good PDF will explain that beeswax creates a "barrier" on the skin (occlusive) and how to calculate the Beeswax to Oil ratio (usually 1:4 for balms, 1:6 for lotion bars).
Xanthan gum (cold process, 0.1–0.5%), guar gum, sclerotium gum, sodium alginate. Hydrate fully before adding other ingredients.
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